
All new windows will have their own specific installation instructions, which should be followed. The guidelines below describe the basic method. To secure the window in position it will either have fixings that go directly though the frame into the wall or fixing brackets. If you are fitting a new windowsill, this needs to be fixed to the bottom of the frame prior to installing the window. UPVC windows will already be glazed, particularly if the window has double-glazing, but it may be possible to detach the opening casement/s from the main body of the frame. Otherwise, simply opening the casements will enable sufficient access to manoeuvre the window into position. Fitting the window can be awkward for one person, so it is advisable to seek assistance. Lift the window and position it in the rough opening. The new window should occupy the same position as the one it is replacing. Push wedges under the frame or sill so it is level and fits tight against the lintel. Check using a spirit level that the frame is horizontal and vertical, adjusting the frame and wedges until the frame is in the right position. Carefully insert wedges down the sides of the frame. Avoid using too much force as this can knock the frame out of position. To check the frame is square, measure diagonally from corner to corner. If the measurements are the same, the frame is square. If there is a discrepancy between the measurements, adjust the wedges until the frame is square. Open the windows so you have access to the sides of the frame. Using a power drill fitted with a long masonry bit, drill pilot holes for the frame fixings through the sides of frame into the wall at regular intervals to a depth of 100mm (4in), unless otherwise stated by the manufacturer. The number of fixings will depend on the size of the window, but generally they should be positioned about 300mm (1ft) apart. This means for a standard sized window three fixings on each side will be needed. Push the plastic plug of the frame fixing through the frame and into the drilled hole. The plug may need to be gently tapped with a hammer to get the top of the plug flush with the frame. Push the screw in to the plug as far as it will go. Tap the head of the screw with a hammer and then using a cordless screwdriver screw the fixing into the wall but do not over tighten as this can distort the frame. Fit the other frame fixings, checking that the window frame remains square at regular intervals. Fixings can also be fitted through the top of the frame into a timber lintel. However, this is not possible with a concrete lintel. You may be required to fix the bottom of the frame to the wall underneath, although some manufacturers do not recommend this. Cut off the ends of the wedges and fill any gaps around the window with expanding foam. When using expanding foam it is necessary to protect the UPVC frame with masking tape, as the foam can damage the finish. Once the foam has dried, use a craft knife to trim away any excess. Then to conceal the foam, apply a thin line of mortar around the frame. Wooden mouldings should be used to conceal the foam around timber framed windows and on timber clad homes. With UPVC windows the foam is concealed by fitting the cover strips supplied. The seal between the frame and the wall is completed with bead of silicone. Finally, replace any casements that you may have removed.
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